Thursday, November 23, 2006

A Gust

The seasons have officially changed here in Shanghai, and I wondered today if the spate of biting, stormy days the past couple of weeks indeed has a discernible effect on the disposition of the city's human population. The thought crossed my mind during lunch in the canteen today as I contemplated whether to tear out the nostrils of the guy serving me noodles behind the counter.

The canteen in my building is split into different sections. There's the line you have to get into if you just want a bowl of rice and small plates of food in varying stages of rot. Then there's the lunch box line (套餐), where you can get combinations all chosen out for you. The hot pot section used to be a lot bigger, and I was a big fan of this because they had a nice MAH-LAH (麻辣) pot with chunk of duck blood in it (my favorite, as you all know). The consistent spot was always the noodle line, where I could get oily dry noodles, soup noodles, and even won tons, which is what the American guests usually got because I think it made them feel safe.

On this day, I waited quietly in line for warm soup noodles, since it was cold outside and I didn't get a chance to eat my usual breakfast of oily, deep fried pieces of toast with pork jam (the most delicious artery-clogger available in Shanghai today). When it finally got to my turn, the noodle chef inexplicably waved me off and told his helper to give the last remaining bowl of noodles from the current batch to the woman behind me.

Confused, I asked him: "Why?" He turned and said that the woman behind me had gotten in line earlier than I had, which I guess would make sense if we are all supposed to stand in line facing backwards. Perhaps implying that I had cut in line, when in reality all I had done is reserve my place to get a tray, I told him matter-of-factly that I indeed had gotten in line earlier than the woman behind me. He turned back around to tend to the noodles, a gesture that indicated he was dismissing my claim as fallacious, at which point I became infuriated and yelled out: "You're crazy, it's your own stupid fault for not seeing me stand here, when I was here first." I felt like such a whiner, but the one thing that makes me squeal like a baby instead of coming back with an ascerbic comment is when I am falsely accused of something, particularly when I'm stuck with the choice of having to deny a woman a bowl of noodles or stand there like an acknowledged miscreant, steam rising out of my ears.

I ended up just taking the noodles that rightfully belonged to me, but I as I sat down with my co-workers I couldn't help but look back to my beloved noodle station, wondering if I should go back and start a row. Petty, perhaps, and definitely childish, but I was overcome with an overwhelming desire to jump over the counter, stick my two fingers deep into the infested nostrils of the noodle chef, and then fling him head backward into the oily vat of pork lard.

Suddenly, a thought crossed my mind. What if the VP of my division, an older fellow who works right under the CEO of one of the largest and famous companies in the world, had been victim to the same treatment? If the noodle chef had known that someone who had enough private wealth to buy the entire office building we were in outright was standing in line, waiting for an 8 kuai bowl of noodles, would he have reacted the same way.

The key is, that he would never know that. He knows nothing about who he serves, but in his own mind he is responsible for dishing out the justice on his own little square area of noodle turf. In this most enigmatic of countries, the noodle line remains a superannuated beacon of what a people's republic should really be: everyone is the same. Regardless of whether you're a street sweeper or Siddhartha himself, this is still China, biatches! What the noodle chef says, goes, and he only sees what he believes. I guess even after three years of living here, the red and green remnants of the Cultural Revolution still thrive sometimes to the hoi polloi. It's just a fact that all of us used to a society built on individual rights and respect have to swallow and digest.

That being said, I'd still like to do the nostril thing, just to get it out of my system. I guess the sudden bout of rage is a symptom of the impending arrival of more gloomy and freezing weather. Or maybe I'm a sociopath with very thin skin. Either way, I'm meeting him outside after work and will deal with him old-school Shanghainese-man style...that is, I'll slap him really hard and run the other way. That's right, that's how shit gets taken care of up in hee-ya!

Monday, November 20, 2006

Lack of Utility

The past couple of weeks can be categorized as one of those “get in the groove” periods, where I basically run out of excuses to do anything of any consequence, and chalk up all my inactivity to “getting in the groove.”

“Eric, why haven’t you updated your blog lately?”
Oh, I’ve been busy getting in the groove of things, I’ll get to it soon.

“Eric, why haven’t you bought any plants for your new apartment? Aren’t they the last thing you have to buy?”
Just getting in the groove, I’ll find some time to go buy them this weekend.

“Eric, what is that awful smell emanating from your underarms? When was the last time you took a shower?”
Oh, just been getting in the groove of settling in and figuring things out and getting a feel for everything. I’ll get to it.

Now I’ve seriously run out of excuses, and my procrastination finally crawled up and bit me in the arse this past week when I realized that all my utility bills were overdue. Unlike with everything else where I can blame Republicans, I had no one to blame for letting the bills fester except for myself. They were delivered on time, and I had them either on my desk or in my bag for the past two months, but whenever it came to me actually learning how to take care of them I just found myself paralyzed with inactivity. After all, this was the first time since San Francisco where I had the responsibility of paying for my own resource usage; I guess I had just gotten used to all the ass-wiping that foreigners usually enjoy when living in China.

In all actuality, the Shanghai utility companies make it extraordinarily easy to pay your bills on time. They deliver the paper versions a month before the deadline, at which point all you have to do is walk to the nearest convenience store and pay all of them there. For the phone bill, you can also buy prepaid credit at endless number of stalls lining the side of the subway stations. For the super-savvy, you can just go to the bank and set up your account to automatically deduct itself and transfer the money straight to the payees.

And of course, if you’ve done none of the above, then you’re pretty much screwed. Which is the position I found myself in, ultimately having to take an afternoon off and visit every utility company separately. That meant taking numbers at the China Mobile, DaZhong Gas, Jing-an Municipal Waterworks, and China Telecom. Not to mention the American consulate to get my new passport, as well as Huashan hospital to confirm that I can’t get my weekly enemas reimbursed by my health-insurance company. With so many millions of people in Shanghai, taking numbers at each of these places was, as Shakespeare would say, a total bitch!

I’d like to think I’ve learned my lesson, that I now know to pay all my bills on time and to avoid getting down and dirty with the other local delinquents. I’d like to think that. I’d also like to think that I’m going to hit the gym and develop that Terrell Owens type physique that I always wanted. I’ll see you at the utility company in two months.

Sunday, November 19, 2006

A Solid Week

The week of November 4-11 had to be one of the best weeks I’ve ever had since I moved to Shanghai, not counting that one week I flew across Xinjiang in a hot-air balloon with Jessica Alba and Albert Einstein (what, didn’t read the blog posting on that one?). It was so great that I proceeded to ignore writing about it or posting anything about it for a good week and a half after that. And here I am now, a little too lazy to do a deep-dive into the events, so here is the McNugget version:

Saturday, 11/4: I finally made the switch and went to Hong Kong and got the Macbook Pro. Yes, I’m now an Apple user. Let’s just say that I’m a hopeless victim of their marketing/branding strategy. After months and months of waiting for Apple to load up their line with the new Core 2 Duo processors, I found myself debating for hours the night before I crossed the border, as I still didn’t know whether to get the iMac (more bang for the buck) or the Macbook Pro (a completely unnecessary and expensive buy, but damn did it look good!). And here I am, blogging for the first time on my new, $2000 machine. I’m also surfing around the web and listening to music on it; basically, doing what I did on my previous computer, which is probably worth about $300 if that. But hey, it looks good and now I can pretend I’m the hipster Apple guy from the ads. Go Mac!

Wednesday, 11/8: I “worked from home” on this day and discovered the true value of Viidoo TV, as I watched Fox News all day announce one by one that the Democrats were taking over Congress. It was like watching a Lakers game; I was so thrilled with every passing hour realizing that everything the pundits were saying in the podcasts I was listening to and the articles I was reading online were right, there would be no surprise on this election night. Congrats to my congresswoman Nancy Pelosi; now get out there and fucking do something!

Friday, 11/10: I didn’t go out all night and stayed at home intending to learn how to do great and magical things with my new laptop, but instead finished up the 2nd season of Grey’s Anatomy on DVD and spent the rest of the night trying to download every song from every episode one by one. Then I found a torrent that had all of them zipped up in one file. Thank you, piracy gods, thank you. (Great show, by the way. I knew when I started watching all these acclaimed TV series I’d get hooked, and here I am, downloading new episodes from Season 3 on BT China). Let me say again, I am a victim

Saturday, 11/11: My housewarming party. Total chaos at the end of the day, and I spent a ton of money on booze and food, but it was totally worth it, as these pictures can attest to. Lots of friends were invested enough to stop by and pay their respects to the new pad, which was introduced to the public for the first time since I swept in and painted one wall gloriously blue, and then proceeded to decorate in my minimalist, modern aesthetic. And now, thanks to all my visitors, my Ikea wine-rack is now full and I have a nearly full bar well (only missing tequila and gin, which I won’t miss). The whole night reminded me of back in Berkeley and San Francisco when we used to host parties in my apartment, mix a ton of drinks, get sloshed and get friendly with everyone. Good times indeed.

All in all, very strong series of days, indeed. And I’m 7-3 in both my fantasy leagues. It can only go downhill from here. Better hit the sauce before reality sets in.