We’re Off Soon

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I have professed my love for the Sichuan province many a time here, and am happy to announce that we finally got our shit together and planned our May holiday trip to…where else? That’s right folks, here’s how the official itinerary looks:

4/29 – Fly into Chongqing. Eat hot pot and people-watch in the city famed for the proverb: “You will never truly know the cage of marriage until you see Chongqing.” That saying may mean a lot to many people, but the way I interpret it is: “All the married men in China live in cages and are fed canned sprouts for dinner.”

4/30 – We leave for Chengdu on long-distance bus. I’m expecting to be trapped in a rickety vehicle crammed full of villagers visiting the big city for holiday, most likely sporting all kinds of strains of bird flu. Of course, that’s just the ignorant city-boy prejudical view of things. But if I never make it to Chengdu, you’ll know that my carcass is strewn across some road somewhere, and my body parts will be the reason millions of people in Guangzhou put their SARS masks back on.

5/1 – We bum around Chengdu, eat some more hot pot, and get the best philly cheesesteaks in China (Zoe’s, here we come! I still have two frozen sandwiches in my freezer from last time!)

5/2-5/3 – We’ll be driving out to Leshan Big Buddha and Emeishan, one of the four sacred Buddhist mountains of China. The other ones are Wuyi, Putuo, and that huge shit that Keith laid in the bathroom last night after (thankfully) I brushed my teeth before bed.

5/4 – We’ll fly from Chengdu to Shenzhen, and then invariably go to Hong Kong so that we can do what we NEVER do in Shanghai: drink lots and lots of beer.

Exciting and new, we’re off soon!

The Kingdom

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Disclaimer: I’m quite drunk

In fact, I’ve been drunk for most of my week here in Malaysia. One of my key learnings during this training week in Penang is this: white people love to drink. And I was hanging out with a lot of white people this week.

Summary of Malaysia trip: I and three other coworkers from Shanghai came a couple of days early so that we could soak up the sights and sounds of the country. On Sunday, the four of us went to Langkawi, a beautiful resort island, for about 30 hours of tourism. Indeed, the island is adorned with beautiful beaches, and adding the fact that Malaysian food is some of the best in the world, a good time was had by all. Except for those moments on the road when I was driving. If there are indeed seven levels of hell, one of them must be when one gets stuck in a car with three catty Chinese girls.


The result of being the only guy amongst three Chinese ladies

After Langkawi, it was back to Penang for one week of training for all senior finance analysts in the Asia-Pacific region. There’s something about being stuck in a hotel all day and all night, being served incredibly starchy and fried foods every couple of hours, and then drinking beer after beer at the hotel bar in the name of “networking” with senior leaders in the company, that adds quite a few kg to the belly. Even now, typing this in a stream of consciousness way, I cannot help but notice this huge bulge above my boxers. White people can drink! In fact, that’s all they appear to want to do when they’re not working.

All in all, a very productive week, and now I return to Shanghai, where Keith is back in town and no doubt the beer will free-flow again. I will now proceed to look like I’m 4 months pregnant.

We Are All Beautiful People

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The first week of April was meant to be one of recuperation and preparation; recuperating from the double whammy of Bryan and Steve returning to Shanghai to plunder its morality, and preparing for Keith to return for his one month of destroying the liver that has slowly rebuilt itself in the one year he has been away from Shanghai.

Sadly enough, this is a tale that has been told one too many times on this site: the fun never ends in a nightmarish sort of way. Upon my return to Shanghai from Chengdu, I rushed out to a dinner I had organized from Sichuan for my guest Theresa, and was greeted at the restaurant by the adorable sight of Lydia and Yvette waiting for the rest of us. It was adorable because they were meeting for the first time, and didn’t know that the other was Chinese, and so were conversing in English, which is always weird for me to see. It’s like me and Raphael talking in German, except that Lydia and Yvette’s English is 1000 times better than my German, and they’re both way hotter than Mr. Beck. I digress…

Dinner was followed by Babyface, where I was able to secure a large table at the last minute. Originally, I had done this to impress one of the Intel ladies who was hell-bent on inviting all the same people I was inviting to Babyface, and then I saw her at Babyface and remembered that she was a high-maintenance princess, and then proceeded to make the best of the situation by drinking as much as I could while watching my friends teach Lydia how to bring the inner hip-hop dancer out of her. The evening had gotten off to a rocky start as we entered the club to see Bonnie crying. She told us then that outside of Babyface she had been molested by a random Xinjiang dude, who then grabbed his crotch at her after she slapped him. The one and only time I ever made this gesture was when I was on the J.V. tennis team in high school and did this to an upperclassman during practice, and my first two reactions were: 1) wow, they do this in China too? and 2) I wish we had been outside to start some shit. Still, overall it was a positive experience (the dancing, not the molesting), but it was just a simple warm-up to the next night…


Looking good

…which was theGiorgio Armani “Prive” fashion show. Since the closest I’ve ever been to the “in” crowd was the one time I was serving coffee and dessert to my principal during the annual dinner theatre performance in my freshman year of high school, it was a big deal for me to be invited to this exclusive party. Sure, it was because one of my best friend’s girlfriend worked for the event planning company, but I was “in” nevertheless. So I put on my best fake A/X shirt and headed out with the rest of the crew to be fashionable for one night.


All smiling because we’re sitting in front of free gift bags

The reason why they should never let riff-raff like us into a glamorous, upper-crust party like Giorgio’s is because, well, there’s a lot of free stuff. Each seat at the fashion show was adorned with a pretty gift bag that had one bottle each of Armani perfume and cologne. After we watched the likes of Zhang Ziyi making thousands of dollars by showing up and pretending to be interested at the parade of anorexic Chinese models on the catwalk, we saw that many of the bags around us were still there as their owners were streaming out the exit. Mikkel and Chace and I scrambled toward the bags, but shouldn’t have been surprised that they were empty, as just minutes before there was a room with hundreds of Chinese people. Free stuff + Chinese people = No More Free Stuff. Learned that first-hand at Costco when I saw my mom’s eyes pop out at the free samples.

After the Armani party we trooped over to Laris on 3 on the Bund to enjoy the after-party, which is kinda like Costco in that there are little bit-sized pieces of free food being passed around, except instead of pieces of hot pocket we were talking caviar and truffles and stuff. After three glasses of champagne, Mike forgot that he was playing bourgeoisie for one night and camped himself in front of kitchen, literally intercepting every single hors d’oeuvre platter. In fact, he was the sole reason Shanghaiist wrote this in their day-after report:

Not much to report from the Vogue party. A whole lot of Mumm was imbibed. Armani appeared for about two minutes. And the food, while delicious, was hard to come by. Waiters who had the misfortune to appear with trays of hors d’oeuvres were literally wrestled to the ground by legions of hungry party-goers, particularly one rabid, red-faced maniac who learned was named Mike Wong.
Ok, maybe I made that last part was made up. Still, at one point in the evening, Mike was talking to Lydia and me when he suddenly stopped mid-sentence, opened his mouth really wide, and pointed to something behind us. Thinking it was someone important like Armani or perhaps Michael Bolton, we immediately turned around, only to come face to face with a place of mini-burgers. In an even funnier moment, Mike was surrounded by three different platters and picked at each one. I then informed him that he had just eaten eggplant, the thought of which ususally makes both of us want to vomit. He stopped, cried out” Aww man,” and then proceeded to search for the lox. It was that kind of night.


I got my shirt made for $10. These Armani people are all suckers

As the evening neared its end, I realized to myself that I had never been surrounded by this many drunk people before. This included elderly society types and dredges like ourselves. Mikkel had audaciously approached the bar and asked for an entire bottle of Chivas. He and Chace and Lucy’s friend Brian finished about half of it, and then cradled the remainder while arguing with the coat check ladies for half an hour because they were missing one of their gift bags. In the elevator with Bonnie, Nicole, Clint and Lydia, we encountered a malcontent who tried to start a fight because we were speaking English. To this day, we still talk about why we didn’t mutilate him given the odds. And given the fact that he was dressed like Ryan Seacrest. And I have yet to mention George’s friend (see below), who took it upon herself to make love to the floor for a good hour.


Dreaming of the catwalk, no doubt

At the end of the evening, as we stumbled into cabs (some going to Guandii, some going home to puke), I had time to reflect on how wonderful life was here in Shanghai. Good friends, good treats, and being in the same room as Giorgio inspired me to be a leathery, lascivious old man just like him in my later years. And here I had been the whole time, lost in the wilderness. Nothing like getting hammered to get your mind in focus. All in all, being surrounded by all this beauty and glamour reinforced the beauty and glamour that I know exists within myself. Now if only I could find some way to pull it out of this dorky, blogger-type guy and get him some real clothes!


The real Giorgio Armani models

Shock this!

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My return from Chengdu was immediately followed by one of those unfortunate evenings where many people cram into a crowded club and drink lots of alcohol, I end up paying for all of it, then reluctantly ask people for money in the ensuing days. Theresa, a team-member from work, was in town for a week, and had tasked me with organizing her weekend evenings. This sounds a lot easier than it really is. I’ve entertained a boatload of guests from overseas, but it’s always a challenge when that guest has never been to Asia before, doesn’t speak the language, is a co-worker, and most relevant, is not a dude looking to prey on cute, giggly Chinese girls.

All in all, I think I stepped up to the challenge quite adequately, mainly by making sure that other co-workers who shared her whiteness traits were also invited. In the process, I exposed my personal life to those that I have to run into at work every day; this is new to me and I am quite afraid. I’ve usually been able to surround myself with people who, if not capable of thinking exactly like I do (i.e. Steve and Keith), can readily comprehend me (i.e. Mike and Eddy), or who don’t give a shit but like to drink lots and lots of beer (i.e. Chace). It’s been a while since I’ve had to be in the company of strangers, and after listening Theresa describe her experiences in this, her first trip to China, I couldn’t help but feel more and more removed from them, like there was a natural barrier between me and her, just as there was when I was in the States and had to fight those feelings of being different when I was talking to people by the last name of Van Wert or Purdie or Negri.

“This has been a total culture shock,” she said to me as I walked her back to her hotel after work. “I mean, I was ready for the spitting, the dirtiness, the table manners. But it has been a culture shock nevertheless.”

“I guess you can hear things all you want, you won’t really get it until you see it for yourself,” I replied.

“Yeah, exactly! Today, I was in a meeting with —– , and all of sudden she just opened her mouth and burped. And I was in total shock. She did it like, three times…like it was nothing”

I started laughing. Freedom of burping had been part of my family for years; it had been ingrained in such a way that I never really even understood why it was seen as all that gross to begin with.

Later, we had lunch with some more expats, who were commenting on the oxymoron of Chinese folks who insisted on walking around the house without shoes, but had no qualms picking at communal dishes during a meal with chopsticks that had been put into their mouths several times over.

“It’s so weird that they’re [Chinese] so anal about having the dinner table clean, but they’ll eat any shit that’s put in front of them.”

I have been here for two and half years, and it felt like for the first time, I was listening in on how this other sub-segment of foreigners really felt. I couldn’t be a part of this discussion. I didn’t feel like defending these heinous (italics indicating sarcasm) Chinese practices, but no way in hell was I going to join in on the fun either.

In many ways, I can appreciate the culture shock that these guys feel. Theresa lamented: “I don’t want to be THAT American girl, you know. The one who comes in and complains and doesn’t make an effort to reach out. I’m really trying.”

I thought about what she was saying, and I’m sure she was. And my thoughts wandered to these other co-workers who had now been introduced to my circle of pals. My wonderful friends who don’t think twice about taking off their shoes, who burp at will but still grimace when the taxi driver hawks a loogey, who freely dip their chopsticks into the bubbling hot-pot of goodness, who always want a clean table before we sit down. These things are second nature to me; some of them are embedded in me as a Chinese-American, and some things cannot be stripped away from me as an American-Chinese. And while I’ve poked fun and taken swipes at locals here in previous posts, the fact remains that I chose to came here on my own, and as such I vigilently maintain an open mind and hesitate to criticize, unless phlegm lands on my shoes. I’m proud of the people here. When folks like Theresa come to visit and are totally lost, there are always co-workers who sacrifice their weekends and evenings to take them to the same old Bund, the same old Jade Garden, the same old Xiangyang market, the same old DVD stops. And they do this without complaint. I have a feeling my fellow citizens back in the States would be hard pressed to do this if the situation were reversed.

I like Theresa, and I was impressed that she was trying so hard to reach out and to understand. But culture shock is what it is…a shock. Sometimes you need a little help, especially if something little like burping is the thing that’s unnerving you. So I made her stop walking, looked her straight in the eye, lifted up my left leg, and ripped a huge fart.

Hey man, she never said anything about ripping one.

Fabrique and Guandii (April, 2006)

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Pearl was leaving for 2 months. Theresa from work visited. It was a Saturday. For all these reasons, we went to our new Saturday hang-out at Fabrique, then got obliterated on our way to Guandii. And Cash Box was open too, of all things. A blast from the past…if the past is considered end of ‘05.